Worbla has been taking the costume and crafting world by storm. From Grant Imahara of Mythbusters to the floor of San Diego Comic Con, Worbla is being used to make almost everything you can imagine. Worbla is different from other thermoplastics. It’s thinner than Wonderflex and handles curves better than Sintra, and it’s non-toxic and doesn’t need special tools. It can be attached to other layers of Worbla or other surfaces without needing additional glue.
- Soften hot air, water or steam (min 90°C)
- Leftovers can be remolded
- Can be used as a form of Clay
- Scraps can be reused
- Hard when cooled and can be sanded
- 'Glue' on one side
- Adheres to idself
Download PDF document How to use Worbla's Finest Art [1,975 KB]
Download Safety Data Sheet Worbla's Finest Art Safety Information [73 KB]
Worbla’s Finest Art (called Worbla for short) has been taking the costume and crafting world by storm. From Grant Imahara of Mythbusters to the floor of San Diego Comic Con, Worbla is being used to make almost everything you can imagine.
Why? Worbla is different from other thermoplastics. It’s thinner than Wonderflex and handles curves better than Sintra, and it’s non-toxic and doesn’t need special tools. You use hot air, water or steam to shape the plastic however you want. There’s no waste because your scraps can be conditioned and 100% re-blended. These leftovers can be molded to act just like putty, and many artists use Worbla like a form of clay.
Worbla is hard when cool and can be sanded without damage. One side of Worbla is the ‘glue’ side that means when heated, it can be attached to other layers of Worbla or other surfaces without needing additional glue. You can choose to work with multiple layers of Worbla right from the start of a project, or line thin parts later as you decide your needs.
Almost everything is possible with Worbla! Detailed surfaces and masks, armor and ornaments, replicas of blades or gems, as well as costume jewellery, figurines and all kinds of decorations.
Worbla's Finest Art sheet: Use hot air, water or steam (min 90°C) to bring this plastic to the shape you want to. The material is alterable by heat any time, solvent-free manufactured & to process. Conditioned oddments can be blended to 100%, so almost no waste at all incurs. These leftovers can be moulded just like putty or almond paste. It's hardening very fast, is manually grindable and because of the extra glue on the shiny side, it is very easy to attach the several layers. Hence you can decide to work with more layers right from the beginning or to line thin parts plus e.g. ornaments can be attached easily.
Download PDF How to use Worbla's Transpa Art [2,419 KB]
Worbla's Transpa Art
The newest addition to our line is a clear, transparent thermolastic! Fantastic for making visors, eyewear, ice blades, ‘invisible’ foundations and anything else you can imagine, Worbla’s TranspArt (WTA) has similar flexibility to Worbla’s Finest Art (WFA) and shares the ability to reblend scraps to recycle everything, while being incredibly resilient to stress.
When the scraps are blended, they take on a milky, frosted look that’s great for using to diffuse light. Make your own gems, faceplates, LED housings – shape by hand, or use a mold.
You can paint the interior of your shape, leaving the high gloss finish of the plastic to remain. It’s also easy to restore rough areas by applying lacquer or clear nail polish to dull areas.
Worbla’s TranspArt does require a higher activation temperature of 120° Celsius or 250° Fahrenheit compared to Worbla’s Finest Art (WFA)’s 90° Celsius. As such it’s strongly advised you wear smooth work gloves when using Worbla’s TranspArt. (Remember, you are heating it above the boiling point of water). It’s also recommended that you use a damp sponge for shaping, to avoid marks and prints, and a firm toothbrush or other sculpting tools can be helpful to get small complex curves to shape.
Things to know!
*TranspArt does not have any indication to show when it is activated. It’s best to work with test pieces to get the hang of the material before starting a large project.
*TranspArt works best when heated gradually, compared to using a lot of heat in a short time.
*Work gloves are STRONGLY suggested. Smooth gloves and a damp sponge will prevent you from leaving marks in the plastic when it is heated.
*If overheated, TranspArt will start to form small bubbles or blisters in the plastic. These can’t be removed, though they are useful if you are trying to make something appear to be water.
*Once kneaded together, TranspArt scraps will take a milky, frosted appearance instead of the clear transparency.
*It is best to form shapes working one side at a time. You can use wax paper to support the section opposite while you work.
*TranspArt works best over positive molds. If using a negative mold, you may need to use clamps to keep sections in place.
*You can tint TranspArt with thermal tint films (usually used for headlights)
*Clean TranspArt with acetone or nail polish remover if you have residue from the mold process.
*Join TranspArt pieces with glue. Unlike WFA, TranspArt’s adhesive properties are difficult to use neatly.
*Solvent free glues are best. Always test your glues before using. Instant style ‘crazy’ glues work especially well and remain clear.
*A soldiering iron works very well for adding details such as lines or inscribing text. Apply carefully so that you don’t burn the edges brown.
*You can also use a soldering iron to ‘weld’ your TranspArt edges together.
*If you create a solid ‘stone’ out of TranspArt, use a soldiering iron to carve out space for your led.